Blog Archive

Monday, October 31, 2016

Happy Halloween, a Pagan's Own Holiday!

Happy Halloween, y'all!

Halloween is one of our more commercialized holidays, with an emphasis on dressing up in funky costumes, going door-to-door asking for treats, watching scary movies, and the occasional practical joke on those that hand out toothbrushes or worse nothing at all (very few people would hand out rocks to the Charlie Browns of the world, thankfully).  (It is also very dear to me, personally, because while I was officially born on November 1st, it was at 2:20am, late night on Halloween night.  Yep, I'm a Halloween baby!)  But is that all there is to Halloween?  How did it get started?

Like many of our modern holidays (I'm looking at you, Christmas and Easter!), Halloween has a fairly pagan past, in this case Celtic, and likely stretches back to 1000 BC in western and central Europe, mostly in what is today France and the British Isles.  Contrary to the assertions of many Christians, Halloween is not "the devil's holiday". Halloween is descended from the Celtic New Year's Eve, a night when the walls between the material world we see around us and the spirit world of the faerie are at their thinnest, enabling the less savory fae to cross over to our world.  Back then, the ancient Celts dressed up in outfits and left out carvings intended to scare the fae back to their world.

That's right.  Those costumes we wear and the Jack-O-Lanterns we leave out are actually meant to scare the bad guys!  Nothing "satanic" or "evil" in that; quite the opposite, I'd say.  It was only the demonization of pagan religions by the early Christians that led to it being labeled as a "satanic" practice.

Still, there's something to be said where the holiday has survived nearly unscathed into the modern era.  The early Christians, seeing the hold the holiday held over the populace, tried to Christianize it, like they did Christmas and Easter (the modern symbology of both - particularly the Christmas tree and the Easter Bunny - comes from pagan Germanic practices and myths), and labeled it "All Hallow's Eve" (hence the name "Halloween"), with November 1st becoming "All Hallow's Day" or "All Saints Day", a day dedicated to celebrating every Christian saint.

Halloween is also, like the American Thanksgiving holiday, a harvest festival.  That's why the pumpkin gets such symbology in the holiday: it's an easy to carve gourd that ripens about this time of year.  Apple cider comes from the fact that apples are ripening this time of year, and the fermentation of last year's crop has come to fruition.

So when you dress as a vampire or witch and go bobbing for apples at a costume party, or settle in to watch Night of the Living Dead or a Walking Dead marathon on Netflix, remember to scare the bad guys that can slip through.  Howl along to Ozzy's "Bark At The Moon" and Warren Zevon's "Werewolves of London" while you're at it.

Embrace your inner pagan.  Celebrate Halloween in style, and enjoy yourselves.  Just remember where the holiday comes from, and celebrate it, don't deny it.

Viva la Halloween!

Thursday, October 27, 2016

Ranoc - Social Classes

     I'm not a fan of Dungeon Fantasy.  I'll be honest, I got burned out on it following a very bad game of D&D3.5 in "The World's Largest Dungeon" by a DM who couldn't DM her way out of a wet paper bag.  I'm giving support to the GURPS Dungeon Fantasy boxed set, but to be honest my main use for it is the Spells book included, which fixes a number of issues with the spells from GURPS Magic
     That said, I've been known to use the GURPS Dungeon Fantasy line in my own fantasy games, usually set in my own homebrew setting (Ranoc).  The books I use on a regular basis in Ranoc games are Dungeon Fantasy 1: Adventurers, Dungeon Fantasy 5: Allies, Dungeon Fantasy 7: Clerics, and Dungeon Fantasy 9: Summoners, usually for the obvious reasons one can think of for the books: Adventurers gives character templates for the traditional fantasy archetypes; Allies gives animal companions, arcane familiars, and summonable divine servitors for clerical types; Clerics gives spell lists for various gods broken down by portfolio; and Summoners deals with all sorts of extradimensional critters that get summoned, including but not limited to elementals and demons.
     In Ranoc, however, there is little cause for doing the whole "go into a dungeon, kill stuff, take their loot, go to town to sell the loot, rinse and repeat" ordeal.  The setting is designed with an early Renaissance/Age of Sail/Age of Exploration mindset, with adventure hooks for dealing with enemies of the state, inner city crime waves, merchant house rivalries, and exploring the frontiers in the Africa and America expy continents.
     Key to all this is understanding the various social classes in Ranoc.  In no particular order, there are Slaves, Commoners, Craftsmen, Merchants, Artists, Warriors, Nobility, Clergy, and Outlaws.

Slaves
     Slavery is a social institution as old as civilization, and in general slavery is not considered to be evil. In most places, slaves have most of the rights of other people. The spouse and children of a slave are not automatically slaves themselves. Slaves may own property, including land, homes, and other slaves! Most slaves are given wages by their masters, although this varies depending on the individuals and customs involved. And, if desired, a slave is often able to buy his freedom.
     There is no overt social stigma attached to being a slave, and for some it is considered a good career move (especially if one is bought by one of the noble houses). Furthermore, the owner of the slave is considered responsible for the slave, legally and fiscally. If a slave breaks the law, his owner is liable for the slave's actions, and the owner must provide food and shelter for the slave. Slaves who are mistreated may take legal action against their owner with no social stigma attached. A slave is typically accorded the same respect as a free man two steps down in status from his master; this is usually apparent from the slave's dress.
     A person can become a slave in a number of ways. In the past, wars between nations have often resulted in an influx of slaves, as the victor claimed the other nation's peoples as such. Nowadays, most slaves are either voluntary, selling themselves into slavery to pay off debts, or are convicted criminals working off their sentences. It should be noted that the nation of Iturnum is the only nation which does not engage in slavery, viewing the ownership of another living being as cruel, inhumane, and evil.
     In game terms, a character who owns a slave has both an Ally and a Dependent; slave characters will have a Patron, and a Duty to his owner.  Slaves will not have Social Stigma (Subjugated), though Social Stigma (Valuable Property) or (Second-Class Citizen) may be valid.

Commoners
     The bulk of the people on Ranoc are commoners. Most commoners live simple lives, being hard-working folk engaged in crop farming, mining, construction, sailing, fishing, herding, or general labor.
     All commoners are considered "freemen," with all the rights, obligations, and privileges that implies. Commoners are permitted to own property, including slaves; are required to pay taxes, whether in currency or a percentage of grain or livestock produced, to their barony, county, city, or duchy; and are not obligated to enter their parents' professions – although the majority still do.
     Whether or not commoners are permitted to carry weaponry varies between individual nations. Knives are universally permitted, being primarily seen as a tool rather than a weapon. In nations where commoners are permitted to carry weapons, the primary weapons seen are the quarterstaff and spear, although axes, clubs, shortswords, maces and – where available – firearms are not uncommon; the average commoner cannot afford to carry a broadsword.

Craftsmen
     Blacksmiths, jewelers, masons, tanners – no society can survive long without skilled laborers. Craftsmen (and merchants – see below) make up the current "middle class," a small but growing class of folk nestled between the commoners and the nobility.
     While customs vary between regions, most of the successful craftsmen have formed craft guilds. A guild is similar in many ways to today's labor unions – guild membership can often guarantee a set wage, favorable working conditions, and occasionally a monopoly or better prices on goods produced. Freelancers in guild territories are often harassed . . . or worse.
     Most craftsmen begin in their early teens as apprentices, working as menial laborers in a craftsman's shop in return for instruction. After a few years of instruction, they are given aptitude tests by their guild to judge their worthiness; both the student and the instructor are expected to show proper aptitude and respect during the tests. Should the guild approve of the apprentice's training and skills, the apprentice is then given the rank of "journeyman" in the guild.
     Following becoming a journeyman in the guild, most craftsmen stay on with their instructor as a "junior partner" or strike out with a fellow student of the same master to open a shop of their own.
     A successful craftsman eventually attains the rank of "master" in the guild, and can take on his own students. The head of a guild in a city is known as the guild's Master; a guild's Grand Master is the head of the entire guild in the nation.
     Artificers – mages who specialize in the crafting of magical goods – and alchemists are considered to be part of the craftsmen class.

Merchants
     While the craftsmen and commoners are focused primarily on producing goods for public consumption – be the goods food, draft animals, horseshoes, or clothing – the merchants are focused on transporting goods from one point to another and selling them, preferably at a profit.
     Like the craftsmen, a number of merchants are members of a guild. However, a number of merchants who are not guildsmen often earn a fine living by undercutting the guild prices. This happens when a merchant is able to sell a larger amount of stock at slightly lower prices than the guild, thereby turning a slightly higher profit. A merchant's motto is "buy low, sell high, and hold in storage as short a time as possible."
     Merchants often hire non-guild personnel to handle everyday tasks; caravan merchants will always be in need of drivers, guards, cooks, and porters, while merchants who own ships will always need carpenters and sailors.
     Successful merchants often take on the trappings of nobility, and will inevitably be referred to on the street as Lord and Lady by the lower classes. Occasionally, a few of the successful merchants who take on these trappings assume titles of nobility, although they are careful to not take any title higher than "baron"; actual nobles who hear a merchant calling himself a "baron", or worse, a "count", "duke", or "prince", are likely to challenge the perceived offender to a duel.

Artists
      Artists take all forms: painters, sculptors, dancers, theater performers, playwrights, composers, and musicians are all common. Many artists study more than one form of art, and many seek patronage from the wealthy and aristocracy.
      Many artists also seek a solid grounding in the sciences. Painters and sculptors are often experts in the fields of physiology, astronomy, physics, and architecture, while composers and musicians double as professors of higher mathematics in the many universities across the known world.

Warriors
     Obviously, wars are fought by people. While the nations will occasionally conscript commoners and occasionally craftsmen into their armies, there has been a shift from civilian conscription and noble-born knights to professional armies. In many ways, this shift represents a change in thought striking back to the ancient days when Aelthelwulf the Great formed the Corcoran Empire that encompassed the entirety of the Teyoth and Rochladastacht regions.
     Even with this shift in military thought, the nobles in charge are wary of placing too many weapons in the hands of their populace, fearing (real or imagined) a possible revolt. Because of this, most nations prefer to hire mercenaries during wartime. It is said that the largest portion of Dnulper Darkshield's multiracial army that retook Ered-Dûm was composed primarily of mercenaries.
     Mercenaries have one appealing trait over conscripts for rulers and generals: Mercenaries are already trained in the arts of warfare, and can be sent on missions immediately upon hire instead of spending weeks to months training them. However, their lack of loyalty can make a difference, as some mercenaries have been known to switch sides in the middle of a conflict when presented with a better offer. Most of the reputable mercenaries have the personal Quirk "Stays Bought."

Nobility
     While the titles given to various nobles in the Teyoth region vary, the following are the most common. The titles given are listed with the male form first, female form second.
     Spouses and children of nobles are referred to as Lord or Lady, even those not in a position to inherit the title. In addition, Guild Masters, Guild Grand Masters, and successful merchants who take on the trappings of nobility are generally addressed as Lord or Lady regardless of whether or not they possess noble blood.
     Please note that, politics being what they are, the hierarchy listed here is not absolute, but rather a workable abstraction. Nations which do not operate on the kingdom model, such as Gor Ansat and Rinkasae, have different political structures.

King/Queen - Hereditary ruler of a kingdom. Status 7.
Grand Duke/Grand Duchess - King's oldest sibling, closest adviser, and Viceroy. Status 7.
Crown Prince/Crown Princess - Heir to the throne, typically the King's oldest child or sibling. Status 6.
Prince/Princess - Any child or sibling of the King or the Grand Duke. Grandchildren of the King may also have this title, although grandchildren of the Grand Duke normally do not. Status 6.
Duke/Duchess - Rules over a duchy, a subdivision of the kingdom. This duchy is typically situated around a city, and the duke of the duchy is often referred to as the duke of that city. For instance, the duchy surrounding the Zitheral city of Penticon is headed by the Duke of Penticon. Status 6.
Count/Countess - Rules over a county, a subdivision of the duchy. This is typically a rural area, with a town as its political center. The equivalent title in the Northern Raider Clans, typically indicating a Clan chieftain, is Jarl, while the equivalent title in Rochlad is Khan; both titles are regardless of gender. Status 5.
Viscount/Viscountess - Rules over a portion of the county, commonly inside the city or town. Status 4.
Baron/Baroness - Rules over a barony, a subdivision of a county. This is commonly a rural area, situated around a cluster of villages or a small town. Status 4.
Margrave/Margravine - A title given to military leaders, often of noble blood themselves, who have the position of Captain of the Guard for the Duchy. Status 3. (Note: this deviates significantly from the historical usage of the term, which was originally a "Border Count" or "High Count" with slightly more power than a Count but not as much as a Duke, and which was also Status 5. I'm using the German Margrave as opposed to the French Marquis due to the sound of the former being easier on my tongue. The English tend to use a variation of the French title when they use it, which is extremely rare.)
Baronet/Baronetess - A semi-hereditary title given to landed knights or those who serve Barons and Viscounts in official capacities. Status 3.

Clergy
     The priesthood sits apart from the secular classes, coexisting and occasionally overlapping with the nobility. There is an entire chapter dedicated to the priesthood, so what follows here is simply a brief overview.
     Most priests serve their deities, spending years of apprenticeship learning their deity's dogma and codes of conduct before finally becoming ordained. Many spend years tending at their deity's temples before becoming the High Priest for a city. Those who attain the ranks of Bishop, Archbishop, or Cardinal do so primarily through political means rather than actual religious piety.  Unlike most such fantasy settings, the higher up the religious hierarchy you go, the less likely you are to be favored by a deity with spells or powers!
     It is interesting to note that not all priests are good; many serve deities, openly or secretly, that are considered "evil" by the populace. These sects are generally outlawed in civilized nations; however, they have never been fully suppressed. Attempts at suppression have resulted in many practices over the last few millennia that still haunt the priesthood.
     In most of the nations, the priests are the ones who run the universities, although there has been a shift in the last few hundred years from religious academics to secular as graduates of the universities take on more and more teaching positions.

     In the western nations of Ranoc, the typical titles are as follows:
Cardinal – International head of the church.
Archbishop – National head of the church.
Bishop – Head of the various cathedrals in cities over 100,000 people.
High Priest – Head of the various cathedrals and temples in cities over 10,000 people.
Priest – An ordained minister of the church, usually presiding in churches and temples of smaller towns, villages, and hamlets; they also aid the Bishop in larger towns and cities. All priests answer to a Bishop. Depending on the religion, female priests may exist.
Deacon – A lesser minister of the church, typically assigned to assist the priests.
Abbot/Abbess – The leader of a monastery or convent.
Monk, Nun, Friar - The most commonly encountered wandering religious type or those cloistered in monasteries and convents for more contemplative forms of worship. "Nuns" are exclusively female, while "friars" are exclusively male; "monks" can be either.

Bandits, Pirates, Highwaymen, and Brigands
     The criminal underclass, these are people who live on the fringes of society preying on those in it. Most often, they are organized into gangs. Many are commoners who have been driven to it to survive or escaped slaves; a select few are nobles who have lost their titles. In all cases, these men and women are dangerous. The most successful end up with exorbitant prices on their heads; most wind up dead.

Adventurers
     A note must be made about the role of adventurers in Ranoc. There isn't much call for the "well-armed vagrant" (what is sometimes affectionately called a "murder-hobo" on the SJGames forums) in Ranoc, apart from those venturing into the deep jungles of Umoja (the Africa expy) or the wilds of Gemenohee (America expy). Most often, unlike in other settings (particularly those defined as "dungeon" fantasy settings) the term "adventurer" is synonymous with "mercenary", and are usually viewed as one of the other classes as opposed to a distinct social class of their own. Many have noble Patrons who fund their excursions, often with an ulterior motive in mind.
     Occasionally, the younger sons of nobles and successful merchants who stand to inherit a portion of the family fortune and none of the title or responsibility strike out for Umoja or Gemenohee to make their own stake in the world.


Wednesday, October 12, 2016

GURPS Supers - How to Brick

     In superhero setting parlance, a "brick" is a character who is designed to take a beating, often being described as "invulnerable", "nigh-invulnerable", or "able to withstand blows from" various sources.
The Man of Steel
The prototype "flying brick"
     One of the first actual bricks in the comics was Superman in Action Comics #1, described as "nothing short of a bursting shell could penetrate his skin".  This has waxed and waned over time; at the height of the silliness of the Silver Age, Superman could contain a nuclear explosion by literally sitting on it(!), while at the start of the Iron Age of Comics (sometimes called the Dark Age or Dork Age), Superman was killed by a creature designed specifically for the purpose of killing him (he got better...).  Generally, though, Superman is described as being nearly invulnerable to anything the bad guys can dish out, except when kryptonite, magic, and "red sun" radiation are involved, or (lately) when he's low on energy and blocked from recharging in sun.

     Other bricks in the comics are Ben Grimm/the Thing of The Fantastic Four fame, various battlesuit wearers (the Iron Monger suit developed by Obadiah Stane in the Iron Man comics), the Hulk, Thor, the Juggernaut, Giant Man, his DC/SuperFriends counterpart Apache Chief, and, though many people don't think of him this way, Aquaman.  All these characters are able to take a beating far beyond what their more human-durability cohorts can.
     MMO players may see a correlation between the MMO's concept of a "tank" and the superhero concept of a "brick".  Both are built to take a beating; the difference is that the brick is rarely designed to "grab and hold aggro" through a threat generation mechanic.  A brick will often be attacked first or hardest, but this is a general narrative idea, not a mechanical one.
     Bricks often but not always have superhuman strength as well.  This superhuman strength assists in enabling them to dish out damage while they take it.  Two bricks pounding on each other have been shown to demolish entire buildings!

Making a Brick

     The first thing to decide when making a brick is "how much damage should I be able to absorb?"  GURPS has two traits that are essential to making a brick: Damage Resistance (DR) and Injury Tolerance (Damage Reduction) (IT:DR).  Other possible Injury Tolerance traits - such as Homogeneous and Unbreakable Bones - can be used to make a brick, but they aren't essential to the concept.
It's clobbering time!
     Damage Resistance is the first trait to come to mind for making a brick.  Ben Grimm (pictured left) has Flexible and Cannot Wear Armor on his DR (supplemented with a Non-Protective Clothing Perk so he can wear pants), while Superman (above) has Tough Skin and No Signature on his DR (No Signature means his DR does not look like armor; and his is sometimes described as a Force Field, enabling him to take a bullet to the eye without blinking).
      How much DR is needed?  That depends on what you expect to run into.  Most police-issue pistols do 2d+2 to 3d damage, submachine guns and carbines can average 4d, assault rifles average 5d, and hunting and police sniper rifles can hit 7d.  Some anti-material rifles and heavy machine guns (such as the Barrett Light-50) can do 12d or 13d damage!  2d+2 damage is an average 9 damage, max 14;  3d is an average 11 damage, max 18; 4d is an average 14 damage, max 24; 5d is an average 18 damage, max 30; 6d is an average 21 damage, max 36; 7d is an average 25 damage, max 42; 12d is an average 42 damage, max 72.  If you have a setting where weapons routinely have armor divisors (the bad guys carry armor-piercing rounds, lasers, or blasters), it is often cheaper to put levels of Hardened on your DR than it is to multiply your DR by the standard armor divisor.
     So now we have our DR set against conventional firearms.  But what about those nasty 32d punches your fellow bricks and some super-strong scrappers can dish out (average 112 damage, max 192)?  If you're on a budget and can't afford that much DR, that's where IT:DR comes into play.
     Injury Tolerance (Damage Reduction) is applied after DR is subtracted from the damage and wounding modifiers from Injury Tolerance (Homogeneous), hit locations, and the damage type (commonly cutting, impaling, or the various piercing types) are taken into account.  IT:DR is a damage divisor, starting at "divide by 2" as the first level and going up from there in a 2-3-5-7-10-15-20-etc. manner.  This means that IT:DR /10 divides the injury taken from the attack by 10.  Damage after IT:DR is always rounded up, so that even if the damage is reduced to 0.01, it'll always round up to 1 damage taken.  This may seem counter-intuitive at first, but this can be used to explain how some brick type characters have bruises or are shown bleeding from the mouth or nose after taking a very solid hit.
     Let's consider a character with DR 45 and IT:DR /50.  He's attacked by a character who is doing 30d cutting damage, doing an average 105 damage.  That 105 damage is reduced by DR to 60 injury, then multiplied by 1.5 due to being cutting damage to 90.  After that, the damage taken is divided by 50, to 1.8 damage, rounded up to 2 injury taken.

Bricks and Superhuman Strength
     Many bricks are shown to have superhuman strength; in fact, superhuman strength and effective invulnerability go hand in hand.in the comics and many movies (think about how often the Hulk is actually injured).  Most bricks start their ST at 20 (due to mass alone, if following some form of the square-cube law for mass and size) and Super ST adds to that; a typical brick in GURPS has Super ST +12/+200 or better, though some get up to Super ST +15/+700.  If there's no point limit, some bricks can get up to ST +20/+5000 (think about how strong the Hulk or the Silver Age Superman can get, and you may realize that may actually not be enough strength for some of their feats!).  A D-scale or M-scale brick can be incredibly strong, and be just as invulnerable as their DR and IT:DR can also get in the thousands or even millions.
     Of course, there's healing to consider.  Many bricks - Superman, Hulk, and Thor, to name some notable ones - heal a lot faster from injury.  This is best represented by using Regeneration (Fast: 1 HP/minute) or faster; Hulk himself may top out at Regeneration (Extreme: 10 HP/second).  And since a superhuman brick will have 20-40 HP, the Regeneration is multiplied by 1/10 the HP value; 20 HP makes Regeneration (Regular) renew 2 HP/minute, not 1; 40 HP is 4 HP/minute.  Regeneration (Extreme) for HP 40 is 40 HP/sec, meaning that the damage taken is removed almost immediately.
     Many bricks also have levels of Super Throw, enabling several of them to use telephone poles as javelins ("Let me get this straight, Mr. Grimm: you threw a what through where to hit who?")  Bricks excel at melee, but their ranged ability is either really short-ranged (Superman's heat vision and cold breath) or throwing random objects to get their flying opponents on the ground.  Some (I'm looking at you, Hulk!) also have Super Jump, but in essence they're ground-based fighters.

     A brick's ST, Super ST, HP, DR, IT:DR, and Regeneration levels are limited by the point value of the game.  Because a brick's traits are not cheap and need to be taken in large levels, I tend to permit bricks to apply 50% more points than others in the game; for a high-powered (Justice League, Fantastic Four, original Avengers) 1000 point game, this means the brick is built on 1500 points; for a typical 500 point game (New Teen Titans, Young Justice, X-Men), the brick is built on 750 points, and for a street-level (Batman, Green Arrow) 250 point game, the brick is built on 375 points.  Of course, the lower levels limit just how effective the brick can be, but 375 points can produce a character that can shrug off police handguns with ease, while the 1500 point brick can withstand tank shells without flinching.

     A final thought: a brick is a simple yet relatively expensive superhero build.  They can be fun, but be aware of both their strengths and limitations.  Not every flying brick is Superman, and not every ground-based brick is the Hulk.  But when things need to be beaten up while taking very little damage yourself... it's clobbering time!

Friday, October 7, 2016

The Battlesuit Hero

    One of the classic hero types since the Silver Age of Comics is the battlesuit hero.  Unlike most hero types, who are either non-powered that rely on skill and use mostly "mundane" technology (such as Batman and Hawkeye) or have innate powers (Superman, Spider-Man), the battlesuit hero relies almost entirely on a suit of powered armor, typically with built-in weaponry.  The most iconic of the battlesuit heroes is, of course, Tony Stark/Iron Man; there are others, of course, owned by Marvel, DC, Image, and smaller companies.
    There are four basic methods to produce a battlesuit hero in GURPS: Signature Gear, a set of Advantages with various Gadget modifiers, as an Ally, and as an Alternate Form.  I'll discuss each of the four methods.

Signature Gear
    The Signature Gear method is the simplest of the four methods used to build such a character: build the battlesuit as a piece of gear, determine its price tag, if necessary adjust for being a higher TL item, and purchase the whole thing with the Signature Gear Advantage.
    On the one hand, this method may be preferred due to its simplicity.  However, this method requires that the battlesuit has a price tag.  If using one of the suits in GURPS Ultra-Tech or adapting from a design built using GURPS Classic: Vehicles or GURPS Classic: Mecha, the price in G$ is relatively easy to obtain.  On the other hand, it is not always appropriate for one-of-a-kind suits (like most of Iron Man's suits).
    As an example, let's take a TL10 Commando Battlesuit (Ultra-Tech, p. 183, 186).  At TL10, it costs $80,000; in a typical modern-day superhero setting this could appear at TL8 as a prototype.  Due to being two tech levels above the setting, the price is quadrupled, for $320,000.  At TL8, each point in Signature Gear nets a value of $10,000; this means the suit requires "Signature Gear (Commando Battlesuit) [32]".  In addition, Signature Gear means the suit has some form of "plot protection", enabling it to get replaced if stolen or destroyed.
    This cheap price can be useful in a fairly low-powered (250 points) setting.  I don't recommend using this method for 500+ point campaigns.

As an Ally
    As explained in The Captain's Boat (Pyramid #3/71, pp. 32-33), a vehicle - and here I count battlesuits, especially those supported by an integral AI - may be purchased as a base 5-point Ally, without adjusting for Frequency of Appearance.  More customized battlesuits can be built with a higher base Ally cost.
    For a battlesuit hero on a strict point budget (say, 150 points), this can be considered the most cost-effective method.  On the other hand, it is often considered a "point crock," as it makes owning or operating a battlesuit too affordable for some games; a character can get a major benefit for only a handful of points.

Advantages with Gadget Limitations
    The method taken by GURPS Supers is to treat the battlesuit as a set of Advantages, each possessing the "Gadget/Can Be Stolen (Must Be Forcibly Removed) (-10%)" limitation, often accompanied with a few Temporary Disadvantages (Electrical, Maintenance, and Unhealing are common).
    From the point of view of point costs, this is one of the fairer methods, especially when compared to various brick and blaster builds.  However, it can be a pain during character generation, especially when trying to add the limitations for every advantage in the suit.  To offset this, I recommend using a variation of the "Meta-Enhancement" rule from GURPS Power-Ups 4: Enhancements, treating a set of limitations as a single "Meta-Limitation", writing just the Meta-Limitation name (e.g. "Battlesuit, -40%") on each advantage, and a note on the sheet detailing which limitations are used.
    This method often has other questions asked during character generation: "If a part of the suit has is supposed to be Gadget/Breakable, what SM is the relevant body part?" "Do I need Switchable and/or Takes Extra Time on everything in order to don the armor?"  The GM must be ready to answer these questions.  A player may get frustrated with this method and decide to choose a different type of character, one not quite so complicated.
    (Sadly, I'm currently lacking an example build, as the build I was going to use as an example has been replaced by an Alternate Form build.)

Alternate Form
    My current preferred method: build the suit as if it was a racial package and calculate it as an Alternate Form.  This lets you define the Advantages without needing to specify a gaggle of Gadget and Temporary Disadvantages.  Such traits are defined as full-fledged Disadvantages in the racial package.
    After determining the point cost of the "racial" package for the battlesuit, the Alternate Form advantage on the primary character sheet is calculated: 15 + (90% of the racial package cost).  At this point, add the Gadget/Can Be Stolen (Forcibly Removed) limitation directly to the Alternate Form trait.  If it takes longer than 10 seconds to don the armor, you can use the Takes Extra Time limitation (p. B115) to extend the time.
    On the plus side, if the character owns multiple suits he can change into, each additional suit of equal or lower point value is worth only 15 points.
    Here is one build for a battlesuit with wings:

634 points
Attribute Adjustments:
ST +24 [240].
Advantages: Clinging [20]; Combat Reflexes (Accessibility: Only On Opponents Whose Style Is Programmed In, -20%) [12]; Damage Resistance 12 (Partial: Torso and Groin Only, -5%; Hardened 1, +20%) [69]; Damage Resistance 30 [150]; Electrolaser: Burning Attack 1d (Link, +10%) [6] plus Affliction 4 (HT-3; Link, +10%) [44]; Enhanced Move (Air) 1.5 [30]; Flight (Winged, -25%) [30]; Infravision [9]; Ladar (Targeting Only, -40%) [12]; Protected Vision [5]; Sealed [15]; Telecommunications (Radio) [10].
Perks: Accessory: Personal Computer [1].
Disadvantages: Electrical [-20].

On the main character sheet, I list the following:
Advantages: Alternate Form (Battlesuit) (Gadget/Can Be Stolen: Forcibly Removed, -10%) [585]

    (Yes, this is my build for the Beetle for my Marvel Reboot project.  I would have used Iron Man as an example, but I'm still working on his suits' racial packages.)

    Each method has their own strengths and weaknesses.  Personally, I prefer the Alternate Form method for battlesuit characters, as it combines a point cost comparable with other superhero abilities with a simplistic method.

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Designing an Effective Super-Hero in GURPS

     As many long-time readers know, I've been working on a "reboot" project of the Marvel Comics Universe since about 2007 (has it been 9 years already?!), using GURPS as the system to create the characters.  In that time, I've had the opportunity to make about 200 individual characters ranging in point value from -10 points (Turk Barrett) to over 34,500 points (the Watcher), with the majority between 200 and 3000 points.
      Of course, many of these characters weren't designed with a set point value given, and most of them have oddball numbers.  For reference, I have the original Avengers at a wide range of points: Ant-Man (Hank Pym) at 450, Captain America at 992, the Hulk at 3,654 (Banner at 13 before his Alternate Form for the Hulk), Iron Man currently at 490 (and set to skyrocket as I redo his armors from Signature Gear to Alternate Forms), Thor at 1,728 (and possibly set to go up when I get around to redoing him), and the Wasp (Janet van Dyne) at 410.  Quite the wide range of points, and only half the team at round numbers.
      So how do I go about designing the characters?  First off, I look at them in two steps: Step 1: Who are they without powers/before they got powers?  Step 2: What are their powers?  I tend to ignore point values for this genre, though in an actual game I would probably give point values.  In a game based on the X-Men, Avengers, Fantastic Four, New Teen Titans, Outsiders, or Justice League, I find a good rule of thumb for superheroes (and anti-heroes, villains, and non-villain antagonists) is about 150 to 250 points before powers, with up to between 750 and 850 points in powers, rounding the cap at 1,000 points . . . unless one is a "brick" concept (which itself has variation: Hulk, Giant-Man, Thor, Ben Grimm, and Colossus are all technically "bricks"), in which case I would assign between 1,250 and 1,350 points, bringing the character to 1,500 points.  This is because the traits inherent in a brick tend to be fairly pricey - Super ST, Damage Resistance, and Injury Tolerance: Damage Reduction in levels that make a brick viable tends to get expensive.  (I'm not one for adjusting the overall pricing of traits, because I know I'll end up breaking things on some scale.)
      For super-normals like the Black Widow, I treat their cinematic traits as their "powers".  Several of my "super-normals" are hyper-competent with high skill levels (16+), others just have a lot of skills at professional levels (skill level 12 to 14).

Start with the Concept.


     Let's take one character I had, an expy of Hank Pym from a few spots in his career: Jorge Hernandez/Hombre Gigante.  He was an inventor type with size-changing ability (based on Pym's Ant-Man and Giant-Man identities) and the ability to shrink items to carry on his person in his pockets (ala "Doctor Pym, Scientific Adventurer" from his days in the West Coast Avengers).  The GM - who was going for a somewhat grittier Iron/Dark/Dork Age type game than I prefer - agreed that the growth ability classified him as a "brick", so I had up to 1,500 points to play with; the GM was using the rules I set up for a different game, summarized above.
      Jorge ended up being 250 points with his stats, mundane advantages (including the Artificer Talent*), disadvantages, and skills.  Tacking on Shrinking to get him down to about 4 inches tall, Gadgeteer, Gizmos, Affliction (Advantage: Shrinking), and enough Inventor! skill to be useful got him to 600 points.  The rest I dumped into Growth 2, Super ST (Growth ST), DR (Accessory: Only When Using Growth), and IT:DR (Accessory: Only When Using Growth), wrapping him up at around 1500 points total.
      After that, and this is a step I rarely take with my Marvel Reboot project, I double-checked things to optimize the character, shuffling points around and raising skill levels as needed.
 * Yes, I know Talents and Wildcards are not supposed to be used for the same thing, but the GM and I both agreed that letting Talents give conditional bonuses to a Wildcard when the Wildcard was being used in place of the regular skill the Talent covers would not break things, and is relatively in-genre.

How Much DR and IT:DR are Needed For a Brick?


     That depends on what you expect to go up against. Most bricks are said to be "bullet-proof", while the primary weapons shown being used against them are pistols and sub-guns.  Most of those weapons top out at 3d damage, with 2d+1 being the average.  In GURPS, "resistant" to damage means that it stops all damage 50% of the time, and reduces the worst damage by 50%.  In a 3d pistol's case, such as the .50AR Desert Eagle, DR 10 is enough to resist damage, and DR 18 is 100% proof against it.  Getting up to rifle rounds, the typical assault rifle does 5d damage, while police snipers and hunting rifles do 7d; therefore DR 18 is resistant and DR 30 fully proofed against assault rifles, while for snipers DR 25 and DR 42 are the numbers to resist or be fully proofed, respectively.
      Because many supers run into lasers of some sort at some point in their careers, adding a few levels of Hardened to the DR isn't out of genre for bricks.  Also, while I do not add No Signature to my own bricks, it may be useful for folks like Superman and Captain Marvel (both Marvel's and DC's) whose "armor skin" doesn't appear to be "armor" at first glance.
      Bricks also tend to hit rather hard, and a brawl between bricks has been known to demolish buildings without the bricks taking much damage themselves.  This is where Injury Tolerance: Damage Reduction on top of DR comes into play.  DR reduces the damage taken by a set amount, but a brick may do about 40d damage (average 140 damage, max 240), and is expected to be able to take similar hits as well as dishing it out.  (Very few 'bricks' are actually 'glass cannons'; it's just not in-genre!)  IT:DR reduces the rest of the damage taken not by a set amount but to a fraction.
      For example, I gave Jorge IT:DR /50 and DR 25, not counting the DR from his uniform (DR 12/4*, with the 12 being against piercing and cutting, and the 4 everything else).  So against a 40d (140 damage) punch he reduced the damage from 140 to 111, then further reduced it from 111 to 2.22 (I have to double-check to see if that rounds to 2 or 3).  Given his Growth Super ST raised his ST from 12 to about 30-ish, that was barely a tickle.
      So a brick needs a lot of DR and IT:DR; take as much of both as your GM allows.  Super-strong scrappers like Spider-Man rely more on their IT:DR, often with "Crushing Only, -40%" on it.

Balancing Blasters and Bricks 


     Blasters are your glass cannons; they dish out damage but really can't take much.  They occasionally do wear armor of some sort or have abilities that provide it, such as the Human Torch's fiery aura, but for the most part they're relying on the bricks to take the damage while they dish it out.  One thing I've been - perhaps rightfully - accused of in my Marvel Reboot project is making my blasters fairly weak compared to bricks.  Most of my blasters do damage in the handgun to rifle range, with 3d to 7d damage being typical.  One has a 6d×3 burning explosive attack, but that attack also drains the character of his FP when using it.
      So, how do you balance a brick who can punch for 30d and a blaster who shoots for 8d?  If the brick fights the blaster, the blaster gets pulverized, unless the brick pulls his punches.  The trick is letting the blaster hang back and not get into melee at all.
     Another option, which may be viable in a setting, is to let the blaster buy a 30d ranged attack and build it with Variable (+5%), letting him dial back the attack so as to avoid hitting others with pulverizingly lethal attacks.  Such a blaster is still a glass cannon, but he's better able to harm the bricks that have a load of DR and IT:DR.
      Most blasters, however, work in conjunction with what are known as controllers, those that act as "battlefield control".  An classic example is Cyclops of the X-Men working with Iceman and Marvel Girl, both of whom helped keep the bricks at bay so the blasters can hang back, letting the scrappers and fellow bricks close to melee.
      Remember that in most cases, a hero team is not built as a bunch of solo heroes; they're made with the intent that the heroes work together and playing to each others' strengths.

Scrapper?


     Scrappers are basically your melee glass cannons.  Spider-Man and Batman are both technically scrappers.  For a scrapper, you want to deliver your damage in melee; this can be either a weapon with Weapon Master, an Innate Attack with a Melee Attack limitation, or some combination of a striking skill (Brawling, Boxing, or Karate), Trained By a Master, Striker, Striking ST, and/or Super ST.  Defensively, you want to load up on Enhanced Defenses, particularly Enhanced Parry and Enhanced Dodge, though shield-wielders like Captain America love their Enhanced Block.
      Some IT:DR on the scrappers isn't a bad deal, as it lets them survive blows by bricks that inevitable connect, but most will lack DR unless they wear armor, and not many wear the right amount of armor to take hits from a proper brick.

Well, that's all for this week.  Next week, I promise I'll give an example brick or three.